THE village of Wilton, just outside of Salisbury, is steeped in history and the Pembroke Arms is right at the heart of it.

Stepping into the grand stone building, guests feel as though they are taking a step back in time.

There are subtle nods to the 18th century building’s history as overflow accommodation for Wilton House with high ceilings and tasteful decoration in each of the many dining areas. And the new owners have fortunately shied away from modern alterations, to keep the traditional feel of the inn.

The walls are richly adorned with an array of paintings and there is a choice of large and small tables to sit at, a cosy wood burner to snuggle close to or window seats to watch village life go by.

The menu matches the many different diners that walk through the doors, with light lunches offered for the passing motorists (me) alongside hearty pub grub.

I was impressed by the many items on the menu suitable for the vegan and vegetarian diet. Having a sister who exists on a mostly vegetable diet, I could appreciate the care and time spent delivering meat and dairy-free dishes in a league of their own, with offerings including spinach and mushroom linguine and falafel and hummus platter.

I picked the traditional fish and chips, with an unconventional twist.

The cod was lightly covered with a herb and cheese crust, accompanied by a good portion of chips and complemented by a rich tomato and Mediterranean vegetable sauce.

At £14.95 it was on the steeper end of the lunch menu, but the unusual and lighter twist on a traditional favourite made me glad I had tried it.

My husband pumped for a roast pork and apple sauce deli roll, freshly baked on site. The size of the roll was enormous and very good value for £6.45 but I was not so impressed with the small bowl of cheesy chips which came in at £4.50.

The service was swift and friendly and made for a very pleasant stop-off on my travels.

JEN RIVETT