Sitting in the heart of Upton is The Crown Inn, a pub which has been a staple of the village for many years. The unassuming exterior may suggest a traditional drinking hole, but it belies something a little out of the ordinary.

Entering into The Crown from the front, and visitors may still be under the impression that it’s another pretty pub. But head round the back, and the Hampshire Igloos show its more groundbreaking nature. The Higloos, like the rest of the pub, are the brainchild of Dave Watts, who worked closely with Raymond Blanc for several years before taking over The Crown in 2019.

It as recently been given a Michelin Plate, which represents establishments that “simply serve good food”. And what food it is! Dave describes cooking through the seasons, using the different ingredients (many of which are grown behind the pub) as his palette, with a menu changing regularly as the ingredients come in and out of season.

Following an appetiser of cheese-infused butter on rye bread, the starters made a strong impression right out of the gate. The Oyster Ceviche saw each individual element well-seasoned in its own right, but they all came together to give flavours much greater than the sum of their parts.

The Crown can also do bigger, however, and the mains continued the strong work the starters had begun. While there are a wide variety of meats on the menu, vegetarians are not going to be short changed, with delicate gnocchi complementing the garden produce it was paired with. The trout, meanwhile, is cooked to perfection, with it soft but maintaining its structure such that it crumbles in the mouth.

Following the flavours of the main course, the dessert manages to deliver another aspect of flavour, with very rich dishes giving bold flavours for diners. The chocolate cremeux is a particular highlight, with strong chocolate balanced by sharp fruit, with a range of textures to enjoy. Once again, each works well in its own right, but even more so when paired with the components of the dish, or with one of the range of drinks on offer. As a result, diners will not be left short changed if they dine at The Crown.

Speaking of costs, those visiting The Crown will have to expect to spend a little more than the average meal out, but it is surprisingly economical, more so than venues with such exquisite dishes could charge. With such incredible flavours and meals on offer, the current Michelin Plate could very well become a star in the not to distant future, with Watts demonstrating that these kind of dishes do not need to be cloaked in an atmosphere of pretention, or to break the bank either.

If you are in the area, or even if you aren’t, The Crown Inn is well worth visiting for a meal.